Aphrodite I and II - Portovenere/Cinque Terre Area

Accommodates 4+2 and 4, respectively

If what you want is a drop-dead view of the sea, look no further. The Aphrodite apartments will fulfill your every expectation. Really dramatic views from every window.

The location? The fishing-village-turned-resort of Portovenere, at the very southern end of the Italian Riviera. You’re a short walk away from the boat which will take you to the Cinque Terre, as well as to Portofino, Santa Margherita, Lerici, and La Spezia. Not to mention a great base for daytrips to the art cities of Pisa, Genoa, Lucca, Parma, even Florence itself.

There are both advantages and disadvantages of being in Portovenere as opposed to being in one of the Cinque Terre themselves. The pluses? In short, Portovenere is infinitely less crowded and less touristy because it’s not on the train line. Thus, it’s preserved a real sense of authenticity. The minuses: It’s less easy to get around from Portovenere, as you’re inevitably more dependent on a car. On the other hand, you can and should consider coming here without a car altogether, as there is a minibus which makes the circuit of the peninsula every few minutes; buses which take you to La Spezia and the train; and, most importantly, boats which ply the coast from Genoa and Portofino down through the Cinque Terre to Lerici and points further south.

Both Aphrodite flats are about a 600-foot walk (down) to the center of Portovenere where you’ll find everything: groceries, drugstore, bank, post office, shops and restaurants of all kinds and levels of elegance.

Aphrodite I. 2BR, 1BA. Ideal for a couple or for a family. With one bathroom, it’s not for 2 couples. It’s easy to describe: One flight up in a 1970's palazzo with a few other flats in it. Living/dining room with TV (Italian channels only) and stereo/CD player. The living room gives out onto a terrace with those outstanding views. Furnishings are comfy, not elegant. Eat-in kitchen with stovetop (no oven), microwave, toaster, American coffee maker, washing machine, and dishwasher. One matrimonial bedroom with that incredible view (with 2 extra bunk beds for kids). One twin bedroom. Bathroom with tub and telephone shower. Heating by space heaters only. Cell phone on request.

Aphrodite II. 2BR, 1BA. This flat is somewhat better furnished than Aphrodite I, again best suited for a couple or family. You’ve got to be energetic: It’s 4 – count them – 4 flights up, with no elevator. But once you’re up, you won’t ever want to descend: the views are that good. Nice-sized and comfortably furnished living/dining room leading out onto a terrace big enough to eat outside and enjoy that unforgettable panorama. Separate brand-new eat-in kitchen with dishwasher and washing machine. One matrimonial bedroom. One bedroom with unifiable twin beds. Telephone.

Important notes:

1. The two units are within about 100 feet of each other. Thus, they can easily be taken together – with a small discount – by two families or by a group.

2. These flats have exceptional views, but they are not upscale. Furnishings are comfortable but not fancy. We’re not trying to say they’re dumpy in any way: they’re just not going to be photographed for a magazine. The buildings are newer and without character. So if you’re looking for a Capri/Positano/Portofino kind of urbane experience here, forget it.

3. Each unit has one parking space, within a private garage for Aphrodite I, open-air for Aphrodite II. So far, so good. But you’d better be an expert driver to maneuver the approach roads, the driveways, and the parking spaces themselves. No debutants here. If you’re just getting accustomed to the stick shift on your rental car, this is most definitely not the place to be learning. And please, if you come to Portovenere, and to the Aphrodite flats in particular, don’t rent a large car or a van. You’re not going to be happy doing so.

4. Roads and pedestrian lanes tend to be steep. A word to the wise.