La Baia - Portovenere/Cinque Terre Area

Accommodates 3+1 - 3 Bedrooms, 2 Baths

First of all, let’s get the location of La Baia straight. When we say “Cinque Terre Area”, what do we mean? Well, it’s not the Cinque Terre themselves. Rather, we’re talking the town of Portovenere, a truly beautiful fishing-village-turned-elegant-summer-resort, on the other – that is, on the southeastern – side of the Gulf of La Spezia. Portovenere is gorgeous, with its characteristic castle, Romanesque churches, little harbors and coves, and narrow, multicolored 3- and 4-story houses. And it’s big enough to have all the services you’re likely to need or want, like restaurants, elegant boutiques, banks, post office, grocery stores, and so on.

Portovenere makes a great base from which to visit not only the Cinque Terre, but also up and down the coast from Genoa, Portofino, and Santa Margherita to the north, to Lerici, Carrara and Pisa to the south.

But we want to emphasize one thing: Portovenere in itself will capture you in the same way Capri does. Even if you sit down at home before your departure and plan a weekful of excursions “out”, one day after another, we guarantee that you’ll find Portovenere so seductive that in the end you’re going to want to be staying close to home and getting immersed in the ordinary life of a real Italian seaside town.

Obviously, however, you will want to do some touring. Can you get around without a car? Yes, you can, but we believe you should probably have one, if only to run errands, food shop, and for inland excursions. Renting a car isn’t cheap, especially when you consider that there will almost certainly be several days when you won’t use it at all. For example, let’s say you’re staying at La Baia and you want to go to the Cinque Terre for the day. How do you get there? Even if you have a car, you’d be insane to use it. The best way would be to take the frequent bus from almost in front of La Baia to La Spezia’s train station (about 15-20 minutes) and from there to the Cinque Terre (20-30 minutes depending on which of the Cinque Terre you’re going to). Another beautiful alternative: again take the bus, but this time into Portovenere itself, and from there by boat to the Cinque Terre. Otherwise, you’re looking at minimum 90 minutes of stressful driving and, in the season or on any nice weekend, probably much longer.

In fact, all of the coastal destinations you’re likely to want to explore are reachable most easily without a car: Far easier are the train from La Spezia or the boat from Portovenere – both connected by bus from directly out front of La Baia. But if you want to go to Lucca for the day, we think the car is best. Also Pisa. Also Carrara. Also the lovely hilltowns inland.

Now, let’s turn to La Baia itself. It’s a typical seaside holiday accommodation, one of four housed in a centuries-old building which is still home to the olive presses which the Olivetan priests at the nearby church used for producing olive oil. The building is nestled just across the road from a lovely little bay in a hamlet called Le Grazie a couple of miles before you reach the center of Portovenere. There’s what passes as a “beach” just across the road. And there are several little food shops and coffee bars walking distance from the property.

Inside, you’ll find that La Baia is comfortably and tastefully furnished with a nautical feeling: it’s welcoming without being at all upscale or elegant. You can tell it’s been lovingly furnished by its owners for their own holiday use, not to be photographed by AD. It’s a great place for a couple or for a family with one or two children. The place consists of a living/dining room with TV (Italian channels only), decorative fireplace and comfy sofas and chairs; separate fully furnished kitchen (dishwasher, washing machine); plus two small single bedrooms most suitable for children. On this level is a brand-new bathroom with shower only. Up on an open loft overlooking the living area is the principal bedroom, with a matrimonial bed, plus a second full bathroom with tub and telephone shower. Paid street parking in immediate neighborhood. Through one of the the two smaller bedrooms you come out onto a neat terrace with a partial view of the sea. This makes a delightful setting for eating outdoors. Our opinion: a pleasant family spot in a great position.